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SOME ACCOUNT 



WHITE MOUNTAINS 

NEW HAMPSHIRE. i^^^ 

Br Jacob Bigelow, M. D. Lecturer on Materia Medica, an» Botany, in 
]\ 

Harvard University. 

■ i 

[From the New-England Jom-nal of Medicine and Sui-gery, for 

October, 1816.] 

1 HE terms mountain and hill are words altogether relative in 
their signification, and are variously used in difierent parts of 
the world, according to the experience and conceptions ot" those 
who apply them. In this country, elevations which are known 
only as hills, would in Great Britain assume the character of 
m«»untains : while on tlie other hand, our highest summits dwin- 
dle to an inferior size, when contrasted with the peaks and 
ridges of Switzerland, of Tibet, and Peru. The face of the 
country in many parts of the United States is uneven, rugged, 
and precipitous; its chains of highlands occasionally shoot up 
into eminences which are conspicuous at a great distance, and 
which are long and difficult of ascent. But the highest of the^e 
elevations has no claim to be considered a mountain even of 
secondary size, when compared with others which may be found 
in every quarter of tlie globe. The surface of the lake of 
Lausanice, in France, is higher than any mountain in the United 
States, and the City of Riobamba in Peru is huilt at an eleva- 
tion more than twice as great.* 



Ja'mcsion's "Nfiiierajngy, Vol. III. 



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2 DESCRIPTION OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

It is not however for their great elevation alone, that moun- 
tains become interesting to the naturalist and traveller. Those 
of minor or secondary size, are equally objects of curiosity, 
and often furnish to the explorer more satisfactory results. 
The mediocrity of tlieir height renders them of course more 
accessible, and more susceptible of investigation in all their 
parts. Being short of the lin^ts of perpetual snow, they are 
covered with vegetables, wherever the earth on them is suffici- 
ently deep. The prospect from such mountains, as Baron 
Humboldt has observed, is far more interesting, than that from 
extreme elevations, where the scenery of the adjacent country 
is lost and confounded by the remoteness of its situation. 

In the United States, exclusive, or possibly inclusive, of 
Louisiana, the highest point or ridge of land is undoubtedly 
that of the White mountains in New Hampshire. From the 
earliest settlement of the country these mountains have at- 
tracted the notice of the inhabitants, and of mariners along 
the coast, by the distance at which they are visible, and the 
whiteness of their appearance during three quarters of the 
year. They were for a long time the subject of fabulous re- 
presentations ; the Indians had a superstitious dread of them, 
and travellers who occasionally ascended their summits, re- 
turned with exaggerated reports of the difficulty and distance, 
as well as of the strange productions found on the more elevated 
jiarts of their surface. 

The earliest account of an ascent of the White mountains 
is given in Gov. Winthrop's Journal, and appears to have taken 
place in the year 1642. This account is somewhat curious, if 
not otherwise, at least for its antiquity.* 



* " One Darby Field, an Irishman, living about Piscat, being accompa- 
iiicil with two Indians, went to thf: top of the White Hill. lie made his 
journey in eighteen days, llis relation at his return was, that it was about 
160 miles from Saco, tliat after 40 miles travel, he did for the most part 
ascend ; and within 12 miles of tlie top, was neither tree nor grass, but low 
.savins, which they went upon the top of sometimes, but a continual ascent 
ujion rocks, on a ridge between two vallles filled with snow, out of whicti 
«;anc two branches of the Saco river, wliicli met at the foot of tlie hill 
wliere was an Indian town of some 200 people. Some of them accompanied 
\:'.i\\ witnni 8 miles of the top, but durst go no further, telling him that no 
I'kI.U! e\;tr dared to go higher, and that he would die if he went. So tl^fv 



DESCRIPTION OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. ^ 

Within the last 40 years the White mountains have been 
repeatedly ascended by different expioiino; parties, and several 
accounts of their productions and phenomena have been 
published. The object of this paper is to detail such ol)ser- 
vations as were made by a party from Boston, who visited 
them in the beginning of July of the last summer. 

These mountains are situated in Lat. about 44° 15 N. and 
Long. 71. 20. W. from Greenwich. They are distant about 
150 miles from Boston. Their Indian name according to Dr. 
Belknap, was Agiocochook. 

Our approach to them was made from the North west, com- 
mencing at the town of Lancaster, a village situated on the 
Connecticut river, 25 miles from their base. From this town 
a road has been cut, passing through a gap of the mountains 
to Portland, and constituting the principal outlet of the Cous 
country. This road takes the course of the Israel's river, a 



staid there till his return, and his two Indians took courage by his example 
and went with him. They went divers times through the thick clouds for 
a good space, and within 4 miles of the top, they had no clouds but very 
cold. By the way among the rocks, there were two ponds, one a bhickisli 
water, and the other reddish. '^The top of all was plain, about 60 feet 
square. On the north side was'such a precipice as they could scarcely dis- 
cern the bottom. They had neither cloud nor wind on the top, and mode- 
rate heat. All the country about him seemed a level, except here and there 
a hill rising above the relt, and far beneath them. He saw to the north, a 
great water which he judged to be 100 miles broad, but could see no land 
beyond it. The sea by Saco seemed as l." it had been within 20 miles. He 
saw also a sea to the eastward which he jxidgcd to be the gulph of Canada; 
he saw some great waters inpai-ts to the wcstwai-d, which he judged to be 
the great lalce Canada river comes out of. He found there much Muscovy 
glass, they could rive out pieces 40 feet long, and 7 pr S broad. When he 
came back to the Indians, he found them drying themselves by the fire, for 
tliey had a great tempest of wind and rain. About a month after, he went 
again with five or six of his company, then tliey had some wind on tlie top, 
and some clouds above them, which hid the sim. They brought some 
stones which they supposed had been diamonds, but they were most 
chrysisii ."—IVinthrop's Journal, p. 247- 

The relation of Darby Field, may be coiisidered as iathc main correct, 
after making reasonable deductions for the distance, the length of the. 
Muscovy glass, ajid the quantity of water in view, which il r.iay be su:- 
IMicted has not been seen by any visitor since his thne. 



4 DESCRIPTION OF THE WHITE MOUKTAINS. 

branch of the Connecticut, passing betwepti the Pliny moun- 
tains on the left and the Pondicherry mountain on the 
right. The village of Lancaster is situated in a valley sur- 
rounded in several directions hy very elevated ridges of laud. 
A number of the summits in sight of this place could nut be 
estimated at less than 3,000 feet in height, judging from the 
experience we had acquired of several hills of known altitude 
on the road, and the accounts given l)y the inhabitants of the 
time necessary for their ascent and descent. 

The road from Lancaster passes through Jefferson, (formerly 
Dartmouth) Bretton woods and Nash and Sawyer's location, to 
the Notch of the mountains. This road in its course runs 
over the foot of the Pondicherry mountain. It lies for most 
of the. way through thick woods but rarely enlivened with the 
appearance of cultivation. At Playstead's house, 13 miles from 
their base we had a fair view of the White Hills. They pre- 
sented the appearance of a continued waving range of summits, 
of which it was difficult to select the highest. At Rosebrooks, 
4^ miles from the Notch, the view of them was very distinct 
and satisfactory. We could now clearly discern the character 
of the summits, five or six of v.'hich were entirely bald and 
presented the appearance of a grey and ragged mass of stones 
towering above the woods, with which the sides and base were 
clothed. In several places we observed a broad continued 
stripe descending the mountain and having the appearance of a 
regular road cut through the trees and rocks from near the 
base to the summit of the mountain. On examining these with 
a telescope they were found to be channels of streams, and in 
several, the water could be seen dashing down the rocks. 

Between Rosebrooks and the Notch is a plain, or rather a 
swamp, the waters of which pass off" in different directions, 
partly to the Ammunoosuck, a branch of the Connecticut, and 
partly by an opposite course to the Saco. After crossing 
several brooks running towards the former, we came to another 
stream, the water of vvliich was so sluggish that it required 
some time to become satisfied that it was actually flowing in the 
opposite direction. This stream has its origin in a pond of one 
or two acres, situated near tlie road, and having no other inlet 
or outlet. This pond appears to be the principal source of the 
^aco river. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE' WHITE MOUNTAINS. ;» 

The waters of this stream being collected from several 
.sources proceed directly toward the side of the mountain. At 
the point where to all appearance they must be intercepted in 
their course, there occurs one oi the most extraoiditiary fea- 
tures of the place, well known by the name of the Note!). The 
whole mountain, 'which otherwise forms a continued range, is 
here cloven down quite to its base, aftbrding a free opening to 
the waters of the Saco, which pass off with a gradual descent 
toward the sea. This gap is so narrow that space has with 
difficulty been obtained for the road, which follows the course 
of the Saco through the Notch eastward. In one place the 
river disappears, being lost in the caves and crevices of the 
rocks, and under the shelves of the adjoining precipice, at 
length reappearing at the distance of some rods belov/. The 
Notch gradually widens into a long narrow valley, in the 
lower patt of which is situated the town of Bartlett. 

There is no part of the mountain more calculated to excite 
interest and wonder than the scenery of this natural gap. 
The crags and precipices on both sides rise at an angle of 
great steepness, forming a support or basement lor the lolty 
and irregular ridges above. One of the most picturesque ob- 
jects in our view was a cliff presenting a perpendicular face 
of great height and crowned at its inaccessible summit with a 
profusion of flowering shrubs.* For many miles below the 
commencement of the Notch the eye meets on botli sitles a suc- 
cession of steep and precipitous mountains, rising to the height 
of some thousands of feet, and utterly inaccessible from the 
valley below. The sides of these mountains consist in some 
parts of bald rock, streaked or variegated by the trickling of 
water, in others thev are covered with trees and shrubs. The 
occasional torrents formed by the freshets in the spring have 
in many places swept awav the stones and trees from tiieir 
course, for a great distance, and left the vestiges of tiieir way. 
in a wide path or gully ever naked rocks. 

In some instances tlie fire had run over the sides of the 
mountain, destroying the vegetation and leaving tlie dead 
trunks of the trees standing like stubble in a field, and present- 
ing a singular appearance of desolation for some miles in ex- 



Rliodora Canadensis, ia full flower ,lunc 20ilv 



6- DESCRIPTION OF THE WHITE MOt^TAINS. 

tent. Several biooks, the tributaries of the Saco, fall down 
the abruptdeclivities, forming a succession of beautiful cascades 
in sight of the road. We were told that the wind sweeps 
through the Notch at times with great violence. The lightning 
is said to strike frequently in the mountains from the clouds 
about their sides, and the sound of the thunder in this place 
is represented as unusually loud and severe. The report of a 
musket discharged in the Notch, was followed by a long echo, 
reverberated for some time from both sides of the mountain. 

The White Hills have been ascended by various routes, from 
their different sides. The course which is usually considered 
as attended with the least difficulties, is that which com- 
mences at the plain of Pigwacket, at present the town of 
Conway, and follov/s the course of Ellis river, a northern 
branch of the Saco, having its origin high in the mountain. 

The place of leaving the road, to follow the track of this 
stream is in the town of Adams, about 20 miles from the sum- 
mit of the highest part of the mountain. Of this distance 
seven or eight miles i*iay be rode over on horseback, the rest 
must be performed on foot. After leaving the borders of cul- 
tivation, our course lay through thick woods, on a level or with 
a gentle ascent, not much encumbered with an under growth 
of bushes, for six miles. The walking was tolerably good, 
except the circumstance of being obliged once or twice to ford 
the streams. Our encampment for the night, was made at the 
mouth of New river, a principal branch of the Ellis. This 
river takes its name from the recency of its origin, which 
happened in October, 1775. At this time, during a great flood, 
that took place in consequence of heavy rains, a large body 
of waters, which had formerly descended by other channels, 
found their way over the eastern brink of the mountains, and 
fell down toward the Ellis, carrying the rocks and trees before 
them in their course, and inundating the adjacent country. 
By this freshet the banks of the Saco were overflowed, cattle 
were drowned, and fields of corn were swept away and de- 
stroyed. Since that period, the New river has remained a 
constant stream, and at the place where it descends the last 
precipice, forms a splendid cascade of 100 feet in height. 

From this encampment, which was seven miles from the top 
of the muuDtain, we proceeded the next day, (July 2,) two or 



DESCRIPTION or THK WHITE MOUNTAIN'S. / 

three miles by the side of Ellis river, on a gradual ascent, oc- 
casionally encumbered by the trunks of fallen trees. We now 
left the Ellis, for one of its principal branches, called Cutler's 
river, leading directly towards the principal summit. After 
climbing by the side of this stream for a considerable distance, 
the trees of the forest around us began to diminish in height, 
and we found ourselves at the second zone or region of the 
mountain. This region is entirely covered with a thick low 
growth of evergreens, principally the black spruce, and silver 
fir, which rise to about the height of a man's head, and put out 
numerous, strong, horizontal branches, which are closely inter- 
woven with each other, and surround the mountain with a for- 
midable hedge a quarter of a mile in thickness. This zone of 
evergreens, has always constituted one of the most serious diffi- 
culties in the ascent of the White Hills. The passage through 
them is now much facilitated by a path cut by the direction of 
Col. Gibbs, who ascended the mountain some years since. 

On emerging from this thicket, the barometer stood at 25, 
95, giving our elevation above the sea, at 4,443 feet. We 
were now above all woods, and at the foot of wliat is called 
the bald part of the mountain. It rose before us with a steep- 
ness surpassing that of any ground v/e had passed, and pre- 
sented to view a huge, dreary, irregular pile of dark naked 
rocks. 

We crossed a plain or gentle slope, of a quarter of a mile, 
and began to climb upon the side. There was here a continued 
and laborious ascent of half a mile, which must be performed 
by cautiously stepping from one rock to another, as they pre^ 
sent themselves like irregular stairs, winding on the broken 
surface of the mountain. In the interstices of these rocks 
were occasional patches of dwarfish fir and spruce, and beau- 
tiful tufts of small alpine shrubs, then in full flower. 

Having surmounted this height we found ourselves on a 
second plain. This like the first, was covered with withered 
grass, and a few tufts of flowers. Its continuity is interrupted 
by seveial declivities, one of which we descended to oir left, 
to reach a biook that crosses it here, from the rocks above. 
There remained now to be ascended only the principal peak, 
the one designated in Winthrop's Journal, by the name of the 
sn^ar Itiaf. and in Belknap's New -Hampshire, by the name ol' 



8 DfcSCRiniON OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

INfourit Washington. This we accomplished in half an hour, 
by cliiubiiig the ik\^e to the uorth of it, and walking on this 
ridge to the summit. 

Iftlie traveller could be transported at once to the top of 
tliis mountain, frovn the country below, he would no doubt be as- 
tonished and delighted at the magnitude of his elevation, at the 
extent and variety oftlie surrounding scenery, and above all, by 
tlie huge and desohite pile of rocks, extending to a great distance 
in every direction beneath him, and appearing to insulate him 
fiom the rest of the world. But the length and fatigue of the 
approach, the tiuie occupied in the ascent, the gradual man- 
ner in v;hich the prospect has been unfolding itself, are cir- 
cumstances which leave less novelty to be enjoyed at the 
summit, than at first view of the subject, would be expected. 

The day of our visit was uncommonly fine, yet the atmos- 
phere was hazy, and our view of remote objects, was verj 
indistinct. The Moosehillock, one of the highest mountains 
of New-Hampshire, situated in Coventry, near the Connec- 
ticut, was visible on the south. I'he Kyarsarge, Double 
headed Mountains, and several others were in full view at the 
cast. The country around in almost every direction, is uneven 
and mountainous. Its appearance is described by Josselyn, 
in his "Rarities of New-England," published in 1672, who says 
that the country beyond the mountains to the northward, " is 
dauiiting terrible, being full of rocky hills, as tliick as mole 
hills in a meadow; and clothed with infinite thick woods."* 

Our anticipations were not realized, in regard to several 
phenomena, we had been taught to expect at the summit. The 
state ot the air was mild and temperate, so that the over coats 
which we carried up in expectation of extreme cold, were 



* Messrs J. W. and F. Boott, who have vJaitcd the mountains since, and 
ibund the atmosphere very clear on the summit at half past 7 A. M. have 
favoured nie with the following bearing-s of objects in sight. The sea, 
supposed near Portland S. E. by E.— Lake Winipisseogee S. S. W.— A long 
hill having an eminence at each extremiu', said by the guide to be the high- 
est in Vermont, W. by S. a little S.— Sebago Lake S. E. ^ E. McMilhuis 
Tnn. Conway, S. l)y E. ^ E.— The second highest summit of the White 
Hills N. N. E. by E. This summit is separated from the one called Mount 
\\'r.shIngton, by a gulpli opening eastwardly. K is very lofty, fdiir.g but 
li'tth- hdow a horizontal line obtained by a level on the former place. 



DESCRIPTION OF THE WHITE MOUIJTAINS. ** 

left at the foot of the hist ascent. The thermometer stood at 
57, Fahr. on the summit at 12 o'clock, and on the same clay 
at Conway, 25 miles distant, on the plain below, it was at 80. 
The snow lay in patches of an acre in extent upon the sides, hut 
appeared to be rapidly dissolving. We were not conscious 
of any material alteration in the density of the atmospliere, 
as neither sound nor respiration were perceptibly impeded. 
Instead of an absence from these barren regions, of animal 
and vegetable life ; we found a multitude of insects, buzzing 
around the highest rocks ; every stone was covered with 
lichens, and some plants were in flower in the crevices, within 
a few feet of the summit. 

The ascent from our encampment at the mouth of New 
river, including stops, had employed us six hours and a half. 
The descent from the summit to the same place, occupied 
about five hours. We left on the mountain our names and 
the date, inclosed in a bottle, and cemented to the highest 
rock.* 

Height of the White Mountains. The great distance at which 
these mountains are visible, and t!ie apparent lengtli of their 
ascent, have led to estimates of their lieight considerably ex- 
ceeding the pn)bable truth. The Rev. Dr. Cutler, who twice 
visited theui, and took barometrical observations, computes 
the height in round numbers, at 10,000 feet above tiie level of 
the sea. Dr. Belknap, in his history of New Hampshire, is 
persuaded, that this computation is too moderate, and that 
subsequent calculations will make the height even greater. 
Mr. Bowditch has published in the transactions of the American 
Academy, alogarithiraic calculation founded on the barometer, 
as observed by Dr. Cutler and Professor Peck, in 1804, which 
gives them an elevation of 7,005. 



* Parce, viator, 
cui fulmina parcent. — 

Hoc fragile monumentian 

Lemuel Shaw, 

Nathaniel Tucker, 

Jacob Big-elow, 

Franciscus C. (iray, 

Frunciscus BooU 

• Hostonienses ; 

Die Juiii 2do. A. ]). 1816, 

iMontc Ag-iucochook superato> 

liic rcliquc: uiit. 



10 DESCRIPTION OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

Capt. Partridge, an engineer in the United States' service, 
visited the mountain some years since, and took barometrical 
observations on several of the principal peaks. His observa- 
tians now in possession of Professor Farrar at the University, 
give to the highest summit an elevation of only 6103 feet, 

A mountain barometer, of Englefield's construction, carried 
by Mr. Gray of our party, stood on the summit at noon at 24, 
£3 ; the accompanying thermometer being at 57. At the same 
day at Cambridge, the barometer stood at 29, 95, and the ther- 
mometer at 76. This difference of the barometer, after making 
the necessary corrections for temperature, and variation in the 
surface of the cistern, would give, according to Sir H. C. En- 
glefield's formula, a difference of 62S0 feet in the altitude of 
the two places. A logarithmic calculation was made, from the 
same data, by Professor Farrar, which resulted in a difference 
of 6194 feet. This number being added to thirty-one feet, 
the height of Cambridge above the sea, will give 6226 feet, 
which may be assumed as the probable height of the White 
Hills, above the waters of the ocean. 

In favor of the correctness of the observations on which 
this computation is founded, it may be observed, that the bar- 
ometer employed was of the most approved and modern con- 
struction, being guarded against accidents with an express view 
to its use in expeditions of this sort ; that it went and return- 
ed without injury; and at the end of the journey agreed with 
other instruments at the University, precisely as it had done 
before its reinoval. 

In confirmation of the present estimate, it may also be obscrv- 
etl, that a geometrical admeasurement, taken by Dr. Shattuck 
and others from the plain in front of Rosebrook's house, gave 
to the summit an elevation of 4620 feet above that place. 
This being added to 1648, the barometrical height of Rosebrook's 
above the sea, will give a total of 6268 feet, differing only 
fiuty -three feet from our estimate. 

W. Maclure, Esq. author of the geological map of the United 
States, informs me, that from two geometrical admeasurements 
made some years since on the eastern and western sides of the 
i:iountain, he arrived at results nearly similar. 

Minerals. The White Mountains when viewed from the 
westward, prf'sent a long ridge bounded by an undulating or 



DESCRIPTION OS THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. ll 

serpentine line. On a near view, the outline is found to be 
notched and ragged, but wholly destitute of sharp cliff's and 
needles, or sudden perpendicular eminences. When the 
mountain is ascended, its uppermost or bald portion, 1800 feet 
in height, is found to consist wholly of a loose, irregular, dis- 
connected heap of rocks, of all shapes and dimensions, from 
one to thirty feet in diameter, lying confusedly one above 
another, but all resting firmly in their places, having found 
situations wkere they can resist the torrents, that roll over 
them, in descending the sides of the mountain at certain sea- 
sons of the year. These rocks are of gneiss and micaceous 
schistus, or rather of an intermediate substance between the 
two, approaching sometimes the one and sometimes the other. 
The mica is abundantand brilliant,butits stratification isuneven 
and irregular, and often interrupted by thin strata of quartz. 
Owing to the ii regular position of the rocks, their strata are 
found resting in every possible direction. Large veins of quartz. 
very frequently traverse them, and specimens of pure mica may 
occasionally be obtained, the plates of which are several inchesin 
iliameter. There is nothing in the colour of the rocks, which can 
in any way account for the white appearance of the mountains, 
since they are uniformly incrusted witli dark grey Lichens, 
which give them an almost blackish appearance. Their dis- 
tant white appearance can only be accounted for by the pres- 
ence of snow, which covers tiic summits for two thirds or more 
of the year. In summer, their remote appearance is blue, like 
that of other distant objects. 

In the middle and lower parts of the mountain, the charac- 
ter of micaceous slate, which in the course we took, appeared 
to be the predominant constituent of the mountain, is more per- 
fectly formed. The strata are remarkably smooth and even, 
and their fissure presents the most brilliant silvery lustre. The 
bed of the cascade at New River, was principally of this mate- 
rial, intersected by thick veins of quartz, in which were con- 
tained large chrystals of schorl. The pelibles in the streams, 
were chiefly of micaceous slate, and occasionally of gneiss, of 
granite and of pure white quartz. We also met with horn- 
blende containing traces of carbonate of lime. 

The object of most of our party being botanical, and our 
course generally rapid, the observations and collections, we were 



12 DESCRIPTION OF THE WHITE :MOUNTAlIfS. 

able to make in mineralogy, were necessarily limited. George 
Gibbs, Esq. who has twice ascended the mountain on diiferent 
sides, with a view to the examination of its ^"alo^^y, ha? favour- 
ed mo with the following; remarks made by him at the time. 
In some places where the geology of the mountain was exposed, 
he found the lower strata of greenstone and greenstone slate, 
with some granite. Higher up, granite and gneiss prevailed. The 
greenstone is fine grained, containing pyrites. The greenstone 
slate contains actinote. The granite contains emerald, tour- 
maline, white quartz and feldspar, white and reddish mica, and 
garnets of different sizes. The granite is distinctly stratified. 
The stiata of these rocks are from six inches to many feet in 
thickness, the granite being thickest, generally two or three 
feet. The dip of the strata is small and from the mountain. 
The rork on t!)e summit and for some hundred feet below, was 
gneiss, afterwards granite prevailed. Near the notch Col. 
Gibbs observed rocks of coarse reildish jasper and porphyry, 
and obtained from tiie inhabitants specimens of fluor spar and 
magnetic iron ore. 

Flants. The vegetation of the AYhitc Ilillfe has been divided 
with propriety, into thiec zones. 1. Tliat of the common for- 
est trees: 2. tiiat of dwarf evergreens : and 3. that of Alpine 
piant.^. 

The woods which cxtciul froia the base up ti;e sivles to the 
height of a'jout 4000 feet from tl-.e sea, consist of the Rock-raa- 
pie (Acer saccharinum,) which is the most abundant tree, thft 
Hed-maple (Acer rubrum.) the Silver-fir (Pinus balsamea.) the 
Hemlock (i'inus Canadensis,) the Black and White-spruce (Pi- 
nus nigra ct ali)a,) the White-pine (Pinus strobus,) the Beech 
(Fagus ferruginea.) the Black, Yellow and White-birch (Betula 
lenta, lutca, and papyracea.) The undergrowth was compos- 
ed principally of tiie Viburnum lantanoldes, the Acer monta- 
liuoi and striatum, and Sorbus Americana. Under our feet was 
the Oxalis acetosella beyond every other species of plant, Dra- 
t(Mia boroiilis, C(»rtuis Canadensis, Gaultheria hispidula, &c. 

WMiere the common forest trees terminate, the second zone 
of (lie mountiiiM iiumediait-ly commences, the line between them 
bt'iiig vciy distinctly drawn. This region consists o! a belt ot 
the black-spruce and silver-fir, rising to the height of seven or 
tMght feet, and putting; out long. firm, horizontal, or depending 
(••laudies, so tluvt each tree covers a considerable extent of 



DESCRIPTION OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 1.3 

ground. This mode of {!;rovvth may be ascribed to two causes : 1. 
The j^reat length ot tiiac that the snow rests iipon tliem, weighins; 
down their branclres, and oonfiaingthem in an horiz-ontal direc- 
tion. 2. The extreme cold which probably prevails here in win- 
ter, and which is destructive to all vegetation, tliat is not secured 
by being buried under the snow. Upon the ground under those 
evergreen trees, there were but few other vegetables. The only 
plants which I recollect in flower were the Houstonia co^rulea 
uncon>monly large, and Cornus Canadensis. 

Above the zone of firs, which terminates as abruptly as it be- 
gun, is a third or bald region wholly destitute of any growth of 
wood. The predominance of rocks on this portion, leaves but 
a scanty surface covered with soil capable of giving root to 
vegetation; yet to the botanist this is by far the mo't interest- 
ing part of the mountain. Many of the plants of tliis region, 
are rare, and not to be found in the region below. They arc 
for the most part natives of cold climates and situations, sucix 
as are found in high latitudes, or at great elevations. Among 
them are natives of Siberia, of Lapland, of Greenland aod 
Labrador. Vegetables of this race, usually known by tlie 
name of Alpine plants, have always been found difr.cult of 
cultivation. They are impatient of drought, and of both the 
extremes of heat and cold. During the severity of the winter, 
in their native situations, they are preserved from injurv hv 
the great depth of snow, under which they are covered, which 
secures th.em fiom the inclemency of the air, while they par- 
take the temperature of the eartii below them. AVhen the 
snow leaves them, which frequently does not happen till tiie 
middle of summei> they instantly shoot up with a vigoui- 
proportionate to the length of time they have been dormant : 
rapidly unfold their flowers, and mature tiieir fruits : and 
having run through the whole course of tiieir ve;;etation in a 
few ^veeks, are" again ready to be entombed, for the rest of the 
year, under tiieir accustomed covering of snow. These plants, 
notwithstanding the high and barren elevations at which 
they frequently grow, do not suffer for want of moisture, being 
constantly irrigated by the clouds which embrace them, and by 
the trickling of water over their roots from the eminences above. 

The following list contains most of the jdants, which we found 
on the uppermost or bald portion of the mountain. For acoii- 
siderable increase of tlie colicrtion. I am indebt-'d to 'riv friend, 



14 DESCRlrXION O* THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

Mr. F. Boott, whose botanical zeal induced him to undertake 
a second visit to the sunimit in August. In flower. 

Aira melicoides. Mx. ... August 25. 

Arenaria glabra. Mx. - - - - August 25. 

Arenaria seu Stellaria, — cauleanguloso ; foliis 
oblongis, iacutis, enervibus } pedunculis sol- 
itariis elongatis ; floribus apetalis. August 25. 

Azalea Lapponica. L. - - - - July 2. 

Azalea procumbens. L. - - - - July 2. 

Bartsia pallida. L. - - . . August 25. 

Betuia lutea. Mx. nana. 

Campanula rotundifolia. L. - - August 25. 

Cardamine rotundifolia. Mx. - - July 2. 

Carex curta. TVilld. - - - August 25. 

Carex ccEspitosa. L. - - - July and August. 

Coptis trifolia. Salisb. - - - . July 2. 

Cornus Canadensis. L. - - . July 2. 

Diapensia Lapponica. L. - - - July and August. 

Epilobium alpinum. L. - - - August 25. 

Empetrum nigrum. L. - - - - August 25. 

Geum Peckii. Parsh - - - July and August. 

Holcus monticola — glu^nis trifloris, hermaph- 
Todito intermedio diandro, viasculis later- 
alibus triandris, valvuld exteriore dorso 
aristafa. July 2. 

Houstonia cccrulea. L. - - - - July 2. 

Juncus melanocarpus. Mx. . . . July 2. 

Juncus spicatus. L. - - - - August 25. 

Kalmia glauca. L July 2. 

Ledum latifolium. Mt - - July and August. 

Lycopodium lucidulum. Mx 

Melica triflora — villosa, panicula coarctata, 
glumis trifloris, corpustido accessorio ; 



floscuUs aristatis 


. 


- 


> 


August. 


Menziesia ccerulea. 


Swz. 


(Erica, 


IVilld.J 


July 2. 


Oxycoccus vulgaris. 


Pers. 


- 


July; 


and August. 


Pinus nigra. L. nana. 








Pinus balsamea. L. 


nana. 








Polygonum viviparum. TVilld. 


- 


August 25. 


Potenlilla tiidentatf 


I. Ait. 


' 


- 


- July. 



DRSCRIPTION OF THE WHITE MOUNTAII|l4. 15 

Hubussaxatilis. L. . . . August 25. 

Salix repens. IFilld. - - - - July 2. 

Scirpus obtusus — Culmo tereti, nudo, mono- 
stachyo ; spica lanceolata, squamis epic* 
carnosis, ohtusis. ----- July, 
Scirpus bracteatus — Culmo tereti, monosta- 

chyo ; spica ovata, acuta, hracteis invo- { 

lucrata ; jlosculis monandris. - - August. 
Spirsea alba. Ehr. - - . - August 25. 
Solidago multiradiata. c3ii - - - August 24. 
Sorbus americana. fViUd. nana 

Vacciniura tenellum. ^U - . . July 2. 
Vaccinium gaultherioides— ^ros^rafunt, folii» 
obovatis, integris ; Jloribus subsolitariis / 
baccis oblongis, stylo coronatis. - - July 2* 
Veratrum viride ? Wild s.Jl, 
I.icben velleus, rangiferinus., pyxidatus, cocci- 

ferus, Islandicus, cornutus, & alii plures. 
Indeterminatee Salix 1. Poa 1. Menziesia? 1. 
The vegetation in spots extended quite to the top of the 
mountain. Diapensia Lapponica and Lycopodiuin lucidulum, 
the former in full flower, were growiug within six feet of the 
summit. All the rocks were incruated with Lichens, among 
which L. velleus is the one which predominates, and contri- 
butes essentially to the dark grey appearance of the mountain. 
In the foregoing list of vegetables, it will be seen that a con- 
siderable number of species are natives of Europe, as well 
as of this country. A question of some interest has arisen, 
whether any plants are originally common to both continents,* 
and whether those species which approach each other so nearly 
in their external characters, as to be known at present by the 
same names, are in reality the same species. The analogy of the 
animal kingdom seems to favour the negative of this question. 
Baron Humboldt has asserted upon the highest authorities. 
that no quadruped, or terrestrial bird, and even no reptile or 
insect, has been found common to the equinoctial regions of 
the old and new world. In like manner he affirms that the 
phanerogamous plants, which have been recognized as native? 

* Humboklt.— Mewoir on the d;slr\bution of vegetable frrm'.. 



16 OEScuirnoN ok the white mountains. 

of the liopical regions of both continents, are extremely 
few. In the temperate zones, the number of American plants 
which wear European names, is continually diminishing in 
booJ<s. The separation of them, has in some instances been 
cairied further than a strict adherence to the present grounds 
of botanical distinction will justify. Yet there still remain 
species wholly agreeing in their botanical characters, but suffi- 
ciently differing in their qualities, places of growth, times of 
ilowering &c. to render it not improbable that they are dis- 
tinct. A species of jEthusa grows about Bogton, which exter- 
nally bears, the strictest comparison with ^thusa cynapium of 
Europe. It is liowever altogether destitute of the nauseous or 
garlic taste for which that plant is noted. Menyanthes trifo- 
liata in New-England, flowers a month earlier than in Great 
Biitain, thougli our seasons are perhaps always more backward. 
Botanists have not yet distinguished the chesnut tree- of this 
country from that of Europe, althougli its wood is weak and 
brittle, and never used, as in Europe, for hoops and other 
purposes, where strength and tenacity are required. On 
;.';rounds like t!ie foregoing a great number of vegetables which 
have not emigrated to us since the discovery of America, and 
which ai e not found far to tlie north of us, may be suspected 
of being really distinct in nature from tliose which nearly re- 
semble them in Europe, and are known by the same names.* 



* Sliil ve should strictly beware of hastii}' changmg- names, and establish- 
ing new species on slight or doubtful fUstmctions. Botany at present, 
Iinows no other mode of distinguishing pkr.ts, than that ,by their external 
lorms, and to tliis, in the present state oi .he science, we must rigidly 
mlhere. If an American plant cannot readily be distinguished from an 
I'.uropean, by a cleai- specific character no harm can ensue, and much 
confusion may be avoided, by suffering it to remain as a variety, under 
t];at sap:ie specific name. A zeal for the discovery and establishment of 
iiew species, however laudable in its general object, has been productive 
fif much miscliicf to the Botany of this country. We have had many 
ipccific names founded in vai-ieties, and many accompanied with hasty 
snd imperfect descriptions, which leave it doubtful whetlici- they refer 
to species or rarieties. Diii'ercnt Botanists witliout communication or in- 
tercourse with each other, have described the same plants under different 
names, antl different plants under the same names in various parts of the 
country. There is at present, no gTeater obstacle to the progi-ess of Bot- 
any here, than the load of uncertain synonyms, doubtful species, and 
tupcrfluous names with v, liich many of our best books ai-e encumbered.- 



DE5C1?IVTI0>: or TME "\YHITK MOI'XTAIXS. 1, 

But as we approach towavd the north, and arrive in h.i^h 
iatitudes, tlie probability of finding phmts identically the same, 
is greatly increased. About tlie arctic circle, the two con- 
tinents approach each other so nearly, and are so connected 
by ice during part of the year, that they may, as Tar as botany is 
concerned, be considered the same country. The same plants 
may be equally disseminated on both, and tiiese may extend 
as far toward the south as the general coldness of the climatn 
suited to their constitution continues. Beyond this they may 
for some distance be found in alpine situations on the tops ot 
the highest mountains. There are also plants of such versati- 
lity of constitution, that they bear all tlie varieties of climate 
from Iludsons Bay, to Virginia, and Carolina. Such plants 
may well be common to the two continents. 

Animals. Tlie unsettled state of the country for some dis- 
tance around these mountains, the many recesses and soli- 
tudes which they possess, that are rarely visited by man : has 
rendered them still a resort for many of the original animals of 
the continent, whose species have nearly disappeared from the 
more inhabited parts. The moose (cervus alces?) still re- 
sides here, and we were told, that upon the Pliny, mountains 
about twenty miles to tiie N. W. some of these animals are 
killed in the course of every winter. The bear (ursus JlniPri- 
caniisj inhabits the v.oods about the base and sides of the 
mountain, where he is not uiifrcqucntly met with,* The 
wolves fcanls liipiisj being gregarious, move in troops, and 
are said to visit this part of the country once in three or four 
years. Several of them v.ere killed last winter in Eaton, a 
town adjoining the mountains. The wolverene, fnrsus laxcusj 
raccoon, furtius lutorj porcupine, fhystrLv doraatctj and sa- 
ble, the two latter la considerable numbers, are found in vari- 
parts of the forests; the v.-ild-cat (felis montana?) is occa- 
sionally killed here ; the catamount (felis concolor s. CGiipmr) 
is at the present day seldom heard of. 

Of Birds, we saw but ^&\v. Most of our migratory land bh<i.s 
choosing to share with man the fruits of his cultlvatlou, are 



^ • Our guide inibrmcd us that cne had been In his enclosures ihc \V( 
prcccdinij ourvibit. 



18 DESCRIPTION OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

more frequently found about the abodes of civilization, than in 
the solitude of the forest. In Bretton woods several wood- 
peckers were shot by onr party, all of them very beautiful spe- 
cies, and among the rest picus tridactylus remarkably distin- 
guished from the rest of his family by the number of his toes. 
The partridge ftetrao nmbellusj we frequently scared. This 
bird, as well as a species of plover or of tringa, have been 
seen in the upper or bald part of the mountain. 

"•Ve were told by tiie people in Bartlett and Conway, that 
the rattlesnake fcrotnlus horridusj infests the rocks and sides 
of the hills in great numbers, and that twenty of these reptiles 
liad been killed in a day. They even approach dwelling 
houses, at the doors of which they have been killed. The in- 
habitants regard them with little apprehension, since they are 
represented as slow and clumsy in their motions, and as al- 
ways giving notice on being approached, by a loud and long 
continued rattle, resembling very much the singing of a locust. 
We saw none of these serpents, and heard of no injury sus- 
tained by any one from their bite. 

The insects which we observed at the top of the mountain, 
were as numerous and various as in any place below. Among 
them were species of P//aZcBn«, Ceramhyx, Coccinella, Br.prestis, 
Chne.v &nd Tenthredo. The most splendid of our native but- 
terflies Pap'dio Tiirnus ? was fluttering near us while v^ e re- 
mained on the summit. 



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